SCS PMA's weigh: 12 Lbs,
Size of box: 8" X 7" X 7"
Make sure you connect the PMA to the correct battery polarity. Positive PMA to
positive battery terminal and negative PMA to negative battery terminal. IF
you reverse the connections you will burn out your PMA as the power rushes past
the blocking diodes and melts your coils!!! You
will easily tell when this happens, by turning the blades or shaft it will be
easy then hard, easy then hard - now you know its time to send it in for repair
(Appx $70.00) - Be carfull when connecting it to the battery/disconnect/breaker...
notes: Do not attempt to use a pulley smaller
than 60 MM - The belt tension required to keep the belt from slipping on a smaller
pulley will cause excessive pressure on the front bearing shorting its life.
The PMA's, listed above, only include the spacers, shaft nut and lock washer.
Pulley and Fan Kit (Sold
Includes a heavy duty
cooling fan. Recommended for all engine, hydro and or belt driven systems. Wind
turbines usually have enough air circulation not to require a fan.
60MM Diameter Pulley
w/Fan, uses 1/2" Belt #PFK60 - Most
Diameter Pulley w/Fan,
uses 3/8" Belt #PFK6038
80 MM Diameter
Pulley w/Fan, uses 1/2"
drive rollers will solve many problems for wind turbine designers and open
new doors of opportunity for others! Can't figure out how to get enough RPM's
from your wind turbine to power your PMA? Gears, chains and pulleys all have their
own unique problems - How about a Friction Drive!
WATER IN YOUR PMA
Our PMA's can get very hot so they need air ventilation holes.
and snow will not harm them.
Most people do not realize that rain water cannot
Only water with minerals in it can conduct power.
However PMA's can rust so please coat them with Varnish
to insure a long life!
SCS SERIES PMA'S
Not made for speeds over 3000 RPM - Great for small direct drive wind turbines.
The NEW SCS series units are NOT recommended for use with engines or hydro systems.
They can be used for building large wind turbines that provide proper "through
This advice is
ONLY a guide line and is not a guarantee of cool operation since your amp load
can still be to extreme for proper cooling. Don't pull more amperage then the
PMA can handle. If you burn one up you own it!!! No warranties on burned up PMA's!!!
All sales Final. If you are an amateur and do not understand electrical windings
and how much heat they can take please don't buy one of our PMA's. If you are
experienced watch for over heating and be careful.
A LARGE extra
heavy duty cooling fan is Recommended for all engine, hydro and or belt driven
systems. Wind turbines usually have enough air circulation not to require a fan
BUT you must determine this fact by testing and observation.
Specify your series #PFK cooling fan kit option at the time of your PMA order.
Our PMA's are not fail safe!!! If you over load them they can burn out!!! You
as the designer must watch carefully for signs of over heating. The Mfg. will
not warranty any fried PMA's!!!!!!
IF you are pulling over
500 Watts without a cooling fan your PMA it will over heat! Fan kits are very
important to have on ALL high amp applications!!!!--- Keeping your PMA's cooled,
fused and under reasonable loads is the operators full responsibility. Monitor
your PMA for excessive heating in all experimental machinery! Maximum PMA's operating
temperature is 350 F. for 100% duty cycle. No warrantees on ANY burned out PMA's!
They are sold in good working condition and you have to keep them cool and never
over loaded regarding amperage draw. (PMA's have no over heat protection.
Please use the appropriate fuses to protect your PMA coils)
PMA RUNNING SLOW WHILE DRAWING A FULL AMP LOAD IS A DEAD PMA!
Here is a buying guide to help you choose the right PMA and keep it cool.
These figure must then be matched to the power curves. This total calculation
be done correctly or you will burn up a PMA or two as part of your learning
(Expensive lessens for the inexperienced!!!!!!!!)
POWER DRAW CHART
0 to 300 Watts - Required RPM for proper cooling
fan operation = 0 to 300 rpm +
300 to 800 Watts - Required RPM for proper
cooling fan operation = 1400 rpm +
800 to 1500 Watts - Required RPM for proper
cooling fan operation = 2500 rpm +
1500 to 2500 Watts - Required RPM for
proper cooling fan operation = 3700 rpm +
2500 to 5000 Watts - Required RPM
for proper cooling fan operation = 5500 rpm +
5000 to 7000 Watts - Required
RPM for proper cooling fan operation = 8500 rpm +
7000 to 10,000 Watts -
Required RPM for proper cooling fan operation = 11,000 rpm +
10,000 to 14,000
Watts - Required RPM for proper cooling fan operation = 18,000 rpm +
to 16,000 Watts - Required RPM for proper cooling fan operation = 25,000 rpm +
Following these figure are ONLY a guide
and does not guarantees cool operation since your amp
load can still be to extreme. Don't pull more amperage then they can handle. If
you burn one up you own it!!! No warranties on burned up PMA's!!! All sales Final.
If you are an amateur and do not understand electrical windings and how much heat
they can take please don't buy one of our PMA's. If you are experienced watch
for over heating and be careful.
COSTAL & INLAND REGIONS:
If you plan to put your PMA in
a salt water environment you MUST coat all metal surfaces to prevent the disaster
of corrosion! Create a salt water and corrosion proof PMA with our Special Green
Marine Varnish (Also comes in Clear)
5 to 8 HP
engines are the most popular choice for people trying to achieve maximum results
from their PMA's when utilizing internal combustion engines. A 5 to 6" engine
pulley works good on 4 to 10 horse power engines and a 6 to 9" drive pulley
has reportedly worked good for 10 and 18 horse power engines.
When picking out a PMA the better choice is the higher
voltage model. You don't want to be under powered. You MUST always exceed the
batteries voltage to produce ANY net gain
DIVERSION LOAD CONTROLER
All of our PMA's produce unregulated D.C. voltage and may require a Diversion
Load Controller and a Diversion Load for
smaller batteries banks or non-grid connected applications.
a powerful battery charger for those cloudy or windless days using our powerful
Photo shows two of our PMA units and a customers
8 HP engine. After thousands of hours the PMA's are just NOW getting broke in
and starting their 75 year projected life cycle since there are no brushes to
wear out or worry about. Bearings availble at your local parts store.
not forget to order a cooling fan kit!)
NOTICE FOR ANY OF YOU A.E.
NOVICES OUT THERE:
If these voltages seem high just remember that standard
automotive alternators are usually putting out 40 to 50 volts into the 12 volt
battery in your car. That's right! It won't harm the battery AS long as the battery
is not FULL it can take high levels of charging voltage no problem. A lead acid
battery will easily buffer high input voltages.
(You will never be able
to see voltages this high because the battery pulls all power inputs DOWN to its
own voltage level AND that's why you NEVER pull off the battery cables when an
engine is running because your fuses, dash board lights and regulator will blow
up !!!!!!! (Especially if you rev the engine! ,,,, NO battery---- NO buffer!!)
Have you every seen a battery charger that had a BOOST/START mode???
How could this work since you can't force more amperage into an electrical circuit.
Amperage has to be "Demanded" by an electrical device so the BOOST/START
switch on your battery charge is actually increasing the VOLTAGE to about 18 to
20 volts thereby allowing you to extract more amperage. Relax, it is normal to
charge batteries with much more power than their output ratings. Only start worrying
when the battery is fully charged and THEN any additional power must stop coming
into it or must be dumped to keep the battery cool and from producing explosive
To make a long story short a 12 volt battery that is being
charged with a wind turbine putting out 50 volts will still only read "12
volts" to a volt meter proving that the high voltage power is easily being
swallowed up by the big lead plates of your battery.
A battery is basically
a BIG capacitor in electronic terms. Once your batteries are fully charged you
must THEN stop putting any additional power into it!
NOTES: Taking apart a PMA the right
way. (Warranty is voided if taken apart)
1) Remove the 4 housing bolts and pull the front housing off
OVER the shaft. Never pull the rear housing off first!!!!
If it is jammed
or rusted use some WD-40 on the shaft and alternately tap the mounting wings with
a hammer while applying pressure to the shaft with your thumb so that the stator
and it's delicate wiring harness is kept in place.
grab the exposed rotor core shaft and pull it out WHILE holding down the stator
ring with your index
finger and thumb. This will take LOTS of strength!!!!!
If you fail to hold the stator in place the core and stator
will be extracted
together and the wires will be torn off! This is a tricky maneuver and usually
takes some experience and lots of muscle!!!!!!!
the rotor core has been successfully extracted the rectifier connections are exposed
and you may unfasten the three wire nuts to safely remove the stator coil.
will be void on any PMA that is opened by a customer. Any PMA experimentation
and examination is at your own risk.
High voltage PMA's and battery banks can cause lethal electric shock