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BIO-PASS Info
The "Gunk" Layer

BIO DIESEL SUPPLIES

 


Cloudy oil and water verses  water  and glycerins dropped to the bottomAs you can see in this photo the seemingly inseparable oil and water emulsion is spilt apart in just seconds in the presence of high level salt concentrations!!!

The clean fuel grade oil always rises to the top which is why we make only "UP-FLOW" type systems like our #WOGB5 and Our Upcoming Systems

The beaker on the right was once a milky / cloudy looking mess resembling the beaker on the left. After salt was added, it split into oil and water in just seconds!**

This also requires the addition of something to thoroughly and vigorously mix the salt in.

This can be accomplished in production oil processing by simply having an ample supply of salt pellets in the bottom of the primary mixing tank.

Now be sure to drain your water out of the bottom of your tanks weekly! Always drain a small sample from every batch into a clear container and let it sit for a day. This way you can see if you accidentally drained out to much. Oil will always float on top so it is easy to see if you went overboard. After many months a milky looking layer of glycerin's and fatty acids will
form in between the water and oil separation layers. This must also be drained off
periodically. We call this layer "GUNK" and this is what GUNK layer looks like up close.

What is "GUNK" - Glycerin groups, fatty acids, saponified oils and fats
plus a whole host of other compounds you do not want in your engine!

Water & Glycerin seperated out of Biodiesel System 3

The arrows point to the "GUNK" layer. This layer will slowly form in your drums andmust be removed when you drain the water. If the GUNK layer becomes overly thickend and will not drain out easily it may become necessary to add a few gallons of water into your premix tank during mixer processing. This should thin out any ultra thick GUNK residues making them easy to drain.

Salt creates powerful osmotic pressure which 'tugs' much glycerin out. Gunk thickness will depend on many factors including ambient temperature and Diesel admixture ratios. Just stay alert as this takes experience and practice. Just knowing what is happening is half the challengeand the photo above says it all! Who would have thought a partial glycerin separation could be this easy?

As the salt is slowly used up simply add more as needed always maintaining a salt bed. We recommend the tablet type water softener pellets. A 40 lb. bag can last for years! The clean oil on the top is now ready to be filtered and scrubbed by our resin or beads.

No more cloudy water coming out of your water drain any more since it's nice and clear now! The water in the bottom contains salt and some glycerin and acid groups and is legal to discharge in most city drains. You will also notice that the oil floating on top is also much thinner now since the emulsion effect of water contamination has been completely eradicated !

Do not worry about salt getting into the oil. The dual-pole resin will scrub and remove all traces of salt and other contaminants since it pulls in both negatively AND positively polarized molecules. Clean oil is neutral and thus has no polarizing charge and easily passes through the Dual-pole resin bed.

*Rock salt or water softening salts are not included because they cost so much to ship. Pick up a 40 lb. bag at any hardware store for about $5.00 on sale.
**The oils in this cup where preheated to 115 F. and the reaction was fantastic!!! Nice clear oil even when it dropped down to room temperature again.

HINT: For very 20 degree F. increase of heat the speed of any chemical reaction doubles exponentially!
HEAT IS GOOD! If you have your oils preheated to 115 F. your fuel reaction will be instantaneous!

(Don't cut corners with the system unless you have lots of research and development money (R&D) - or motors, injectors and equipment to throw away. Water removal is very very important. Water will destroy you EXPENSIVE injectors.)