A New System will be coming appx. the end of JULY, SORRY, NOT TAKING CALLS ON THE NEW SYSTEM. NO INFO TO GIVE OUT, PLEASE WAIT TILL YOU SEE THE NEW SYSTEM BEFORE CALLING OTHERWISE WE WON'T HAVE ANYTHING TO TELL YOU, SORRY.

PAGE HAS BEEN UPDATED - Keep abreast of all updates!!
  5/3/07 - New System appx completion date - Will Produce ASTM GRADE fuel Without Chemicals

• Learn how to make virtually Free Fuel to run Diesel Motors, Oil Heaters, Generators, etc.
• No "Secret Formula" Additive necessary with our System - You don't have to keep buying the secret ingredient from us in order to make your fuel - no weekly/monthly "secret commision" paid to us!
  
• With Fuel costs at all time highs, our system will pay for itself many times over !
  
• Restaurants and Automotive Garages PAY to have their used oil hauled away
• These oils are FREE for the taking, plus you will being doing the shop owner a favor too!
• Used Cooking Oil and Crankcase Oil can easily be converted To run Diesel engines and oil Heaters!
• Learn how HERE on this web page!

COMINING SOON
System w/Hydraulic Pump  or  Gravity Flow

System Process below - This is why you shouldn't touch Chemicals!

Using our Special Shear you will sperate the Wax, Glycerins and Water from the waste Vegetable Oil, using rock salt also. Must be used per our specs.

To the right you see the Outcome of the shearing process:

Below you see the "gunk" from the Sheared Oil after it has been filtered using one of our 5-Gallon filtering bags (in a 5-Gallon Bucket)

Then De-Contaminate and finish De-Watering it with Our Accusorb Beads:

Now that the waste vegetabel oil has been Processed, Filtered & Dewatered you will have very clean ready to use Biodiesel !

Buy your own Cracking Impeller
High shear cracking impeller for high speed drill motor with 3/8" chuck
High shear impeller with 18" shaft for high speed drills with 3/8" chuck
Requires 1500 RPM +, and Cracks fuel in 6 minutes of agitation time.
Only $69.95   #CK18 - (Balanced for high speed use)
OUT OF STOCK


High shear impeller with 24" shaft for slow speed drills with 3/8" chuck
Requires 500 RPM (Maximum) to Crack fuel in 17 to 19 minutes of agitation time.
Only $49.95    #CK24 - (Not for speeds over 500 RPM )

HINT: For very 20 degree increase of heat the speed of any chemical reaction doubles exponentially!
HEAT IS GOOD! If you have your oils are preheated to 115 F. your fuel reaction will be instantaneous!

Do not worry about salt getting into the oil. Your Acusorb beads will scrub and remove all traces of salt and other contaminants since it pulls in both negatively AND positively polarized molecules. Any salt molecules still sticking to the caps or ends of the hydrocarbon chain will be removed leaving only a clean Ester remaining.

After 10 minutes of mixing the newly cracked oil will look like the cup on the left. ONLY after 72 hours do 'Van der Waals' agglomeration forces pull the blend apart into separate layers like the cup on the right. DO NOT attemp filter until the layers have separated!!! If you filter it to early your fuel will be milky and you will most likely irreparably clog your filter.

SPLITTING WATER FROM OIL AND THE USE OF SIMPLE TABLE SALT - Why is the use of rock salt or ordinary table salt so important to use in the pre-mix tank?

As you can see in this photo the seemingly inseparable oil and water emulsion is easily spilt apart in the presence of high level salt (NaCl) concentrations!

The beaker on the right was once a milky / cloudy looking mess resembling the beaker on the left. After salt was added it split into oil and water. Splitting oil from water with salt is fast and easy BUT with the addition of even more excessive amounts of Rock Salt plus the right kind of high shear mixer you can actually "CRACK" any dirty vegetable oil!

Cracking or chemical cracking means splitting the unwanted waxy/acids and glycerin/soap groups away from the vegetable oil (Esters) but again be reminded this will ONLY work if a radically vigorous type of agitation device is used to aggressively mix and mill the excess salt crystals while whipping in copious amounts of air into the mixture which jump starts the cataylization process. The salt is "surface oxidized" by billions of -500 angstrom sized air bubbles and a whole new set of kinetics takes over. This is called Oxy/Salt cracking. The oxygen in the air bubbles momentarily opens and combines with two of the eight electrons in the Chlorine atoms valance since some of the salts are forming a nascent type of Hydrochloric Acid called Perchloric acid or HClO right on the surface of the salt crystals. This leaves salts opposite or equilibrium chemical Sodium Hydroxide remaining in the mix to act upon the oil also. Both chemicals act as cracking agents working in tandem and doing their respective separate jobs in this wild brew that was discovered by scientists in the early 1920's.

The scientists noticed that Sea-water become temporarily but extremely corrosive while enduring a high-shear agitated state while in the presence of air bubbles. The extreme pressure forces of high shear coupled with a tremendous cross section of the Sea-water or salt crystals being exposed to billions of air bubbles created this effect. The problem is that some but not all of the chlorine atoms have taken up residence in the empty holes (caps) left by the vacating glycerin. Alcohol usually ends up in this spot during traditional transrectification processes. Most of the Chlorine has formed Waxy/Acids and the Sodium Hydroxide has become Glycerin/Soap but not all of it. These stray Chlorine atoms can be quickly removed since Chlorine has a strong negative charge and when passed through a bed of Acusorb-Beads the Chlorine atoms quickly yield to the powerful attraction of the beads and are easily removed.

The Oxy/Salt process is an economical advancement to the well recognized two-step acid/base ASTM oil cracking methods. The Oxy/Salt process will cause a foamy layer of waxy-acid groups to form and float on the top (see waxy layer on top) as well as a more Alkaline layer of glycerin-soap groups to form underneath the fuel oil layer(on bottom). Any excess salt crystals and salt water ends up settling on the very bottom.

Note: This process can be done at room temperature but agglomeration and separation goes much faster when it is done warm.

 

 

Basic Starter Formula By Volume:

80 parts vegetable oil, 10 parts rock salt, 10 parts Diesel fuel

 

Do not worry about salt getting into the oil. Your Acusorb beads will scrub and remove all traces of salt and other contaminants since it pulls in both negatively AND positively polarized molecules. Any salt molecules still sticking to the caps or ends of the hydrocarbon chain will be removed leaving only a clean ester remaining.

LARGE SCALE CUSTOM HIGH SHEAR SALT CRACKING
If you do not have access to a high shear mixer there are companies that can do it for you under contract. See http://www.crackprocessing.com/services04.html Give them this formula 4400 liters vegetable oil with 250 kilos of rock salt and also add just enough Diesel fuel to make it fluid IF necessary since some oils flow freely at room temperature. Have them blend this for 30 minutes under high shear conditions with excess air mixed in. Now pour into drums and allow 72 hours for agglomeration and separation to occur. Then filter to 10 micron and pass all fuel oil through Acusorb bead bed. Done!

(Below) Our down-flow 5-gallon bucket filter removes both the waxy and glycerin/soap and allow the clean fuel to pass. As you can see the fitler catches a lot of waste prouduct.

 Cloth 3-Micron Filter $49.95/ea

The Correct & Incorrect way to install Filter Bags

Down-Flow Filters
3 micron disposable paper filters for all 5 gallon buckets

 

 

 

 

The Elastic top band fits all types of 5 gallon buckets or pails. (Many 1/4" holes must be drilled first) Drill about 100 holes in the bottom of your 5-gallon plastic pail and you now have an extremely economical filter housing. Most cloudy oils come out clear! Flow is about 3 gallons an hour but this will tapper as filter gets older. The goods news is that as the filter gets older it gets down to about 1/2micron filtration size so the fuel gets even cleaner as this filter ages! When it is full of "GUNK" just tip the whole filter into a plastic trash bag and toss it all! Easy! No gunk, no mess!

After passing through the beads you have ASTM Grade 100 Bio-Diesel Fuel !!

 

A New System will be coming appx the end of JULY, SORRY, NOT TAKING CALLS ON THE NEW SYSTEM. NO INFO TO GIVE OUT, PLEASE WAIT TILL YOU SEE THE NEW SYSTEM BEFORE CALLING.

GREEN and BLACK Oil Processing
What is Green or Black oil?

• Removes 99.99% of water from used engine fluids and oils
  
• Absorbs all types of water bonded molecules from oils and fats
  
• Turns mucky or milky emulsions into clear burnable fue

"Traditional" BIO-DIESEL ENHANCEMENT - Make the BIO process cheaper (This is not our process but our system will make the traditional method less expensive if a person chooses that method.)

OUR System vs. the old Chemical Lye/Methanol chemical method
Our Bio-Pass® system can be used to avoid the entire Alkaline/Alcohol process! OR, our Bio-Pass® system can also be employed to cut the old "standard method" chemical processing costs in half when utilized as a pre-filtering device in all Alkaline/Alcohol processes. If you are serious about making any type of Diesel fuel alternatives the Bio-Pass® systems will be a great help to your endeavors no matter what formula you choose.

• Can be used to wash or "scrub" impurities from Bio Diesel (Adjusts pH)
  
• Drastically cuts the amounts of caustic alcohols necessary to make ASTM grade Bio-Diesel !
  
• Run your vegetable oil through Bio-Pass filters and Acusorb® beads first and then make standard
  
• Bio-Diesel to ASTM standards with as little as 10% of the caustic alcohol solutions normally necessary!

But, if you use our System, then:

• NO MORE intensive measuring, weighing, titrating, and calculating formulas plus waiting for reaction times.
• NO MORE toxic and burning chemicals (A great potential for Disaster!!!)
  
• NO MORE endless separating and decanting of fluids into dozens of drums
  
• NO MORE messy - gooey waste barrels cluttering up your yard
  
• NO MORE corrosive fuels eating up your fuel pump parts, corroding your fuel tank or dissolving your rubber lines
  
• NO MORE trying to dispose of or sell your GLYCERIN (Nobody wants it anyway)

Our Bio-Diesel System works well on the following waste oil products:
(Note: Must mix the diesel with the waste oil before processing through our Waste Oil system.)

• BLACK DIESEL
  Motor oils - Note: They come in a variety of heavy weights, use more diesel with heavy weight oils
  
• Gear oils - Note: They come in a variety of heavy weights, so you will need to use more diesel like above.
• Transmission fluids 50/50 mix. This oil produces higher temperatures so mix 50/50 +
• Other petroleum based lubricating fluids

• Synthetic Lubricants*
  * You must go 50/50 Diesel to Synthetic. If you go lean on the diesel the engine may have trouble Starting and or smoke too much!

• GREEN DIESEL
• Cooking and Deep Frying Oils
  
• Kitchen Grease and Fats*
  
  1. Soy Bean Oil is the best oil for making Green Fuel
  2. Canola Oil is 2nd best
  3. *Peanut Oil
  4. *Corn Oil
     *Need more Diesel since they tend to Smoke if too rich since some vegi oil is thicker than others

° See engine and our EAGLE Wind Turbine Altenator generating almost free power!
° These engines are spinning our Permenant Magnet Alternators to create DC power to grid-feed through an    inverter.
° See movie of motor running on free fry oil

Do Alternative Diesel Fuel The Easy Way With our Acusorb® Beads!

We do not sell books on our Bio-Pass process since it's so simple! You can mix together any ratio of Acusorb® bead cleaned Green and Black (vegetable and crank case) oils and then add some ordinary Diesel fuel to the mixture. If you get stingy with the amount of Diesel fuel you add to the mixture your engine or heater will start producing excess smoke. So then you add more Diesel fuel to the next batch until it burns clean and there you have it! Cheap fuel! It's not rocket science.

The Green Diesel method is only a Techno-fix since it still requires the use of some fossil fuels but the important point is that it's a fast and easy fix that's available RIGHT NOW! - Techno-fixes do have a legitimate place in movement to eliminate dependency on fossil fuels.

ACUSORB BEADS ARE FULLY REGENERATABLE !!!
Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification beads
(This inorganic Polymer contains Silver and Zinc chlorides and nitrates creating powerful hydrous attraction) Acusorb beads can be reused by simply heating them and driving off the contamination.

• Reuse them hundreds of times!
• Can be regenerated by heating!

A 30 lb. container is capable of processing over 1,000,000 gallons of oil in its life time (assuming average restaurant grade deep frying oil). When your oil starts coming out milky it's a sign that the beads need regeneration. When you reactivate and heat the beads you will see lots of dense white smoke coming out of the oven. This is the Glycerin vaporizing off of the beads.

Back in an older Hollywood Glycerin was the chemical of choice for making artificial fog and smoke on many movie sets. Now-a-days they use propyleneglycol called "fog fluid" instead since the fumes are less chocking then the acrolein fumes caused by glycerin vaporization. Just make sure you bake the beads at least 300 feet away from people, pets and other homes so that the dense white smoke of the vaporizing glycerin doesn't become a nuisance. Breathing any of these fumes is to be STRICTLY avoided! Acrolein fumes can be toxic in high concertations. Glycerin smoke is not toxic in tiny amonts but you just never know what kind of other nasty stuff people may have dumped into their waste oils.

The whole Acusorb process is a VERY cost effective one, much cheaper than using thousands of gallons in alcohol for the Bio-Diesel process. Green oil and Black oil fuel additives are also non-caustic, pH neutral and do not require washing or pH adjustments like Bio-Diesel fuels do.

How to regenerate the Acusorb® beads
After your Acusorb beads have absorbed all the water molecule groups (25% of their own weight) they can be reactivated by simply oven baking them at between 325 and 350 degrees F. for a few hours or until they stop smoking. Simply place the beads into a large aluminum "Turkey" basting tray available from at any grocery store. Many veteran "bead bakers" have reported that they use the smoke as a signal that the regeneration of the beads is complete. As soon as the beads stop producing the majority of their smoke the oven is turned off. The beads are then allowed to cool in the oven until they reach about 100 degrees F. then are immediately dumped into a bucket of clean oil to keep them from absorbing water from the air. These beads are now ready for use again! Notes: Do not over bake the beads and never exceed 375!!! If they turn black they have been over cooked and are DOA! (Do not try this in your home oven! Purchase an old used electric oven with thermostat and put it outside!)

"Alkaline/Alcohol is a great process for big corporate plants but is not necessarily the best route for small companies or individuals seeking energy independence. The Acusorb bead process is a proven alternative"

Testing if Acusorb® Beads need regenerating
TESTING PROCEDURE

1. Add one teaspoon of water to one cup of new soybean or rape seed oil
2. Place this mixture into a drink blender and blend until white a creamy (5 minutes or more is best)
3. Pour the white creamy mixture into two glasses
4. Add a tablespoon of NEW beads into one glass and then a tablespoon of the OLD used beads into the other glass

Check the next morning (8 to 12 hours) and observe the condition of both milky/oily water solutions.
The glass with the new beads should be crystal clear as all the water is in the beads now!!!
If the older beads are still working they could have made the solution many different degrees of "clearer" depending on their remaining cleaning power. If the test solution containing the used beads is still milky white then the beads need regenerating.

Acusorb® Beads
Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Diesterification beads
(This inorganic Polymer contains Silver and Zinc chlorides and nitrates creating powerful hydrous attraction) Reuse them hundreds of times! Can be regenerated by heating!

The Bio-Pass Process - (The UN- BioDiesel Method)
"Water-bond adsorption medias have gained continued acceptance for alternative oil-fuel processing" Helps remove the water-bonded acid and water-bonded glycerin groups out of your waste oils, fats and fuels!

2mm beads - 30 lbs of beads
This inorganic Polymer contains Silver and Zinc chlorides and nitrates creating powerful hydrous attraction - Holding Power!. *30 lbs of beads is enough to process 5000 gallons of waste oil before regeneration is required assuming the oil is not extremely contaminated*

MAXIMUM OIL FLOW RATE
For every 30 lbs. of beads you have in your waste oil circuityou will be able to process approximately 8 to 16 gallons per hour.   You will have 384 gallons per day maximum flow rate for new or freshly recharged beads. This rate may decrease as the beads get saturated with contaminants. The oil flowing out of the beads should always look clear when you have the flow rate adjusted properly. Extremely contaminated oils may need to be processed at slower flow rates!

Acusorb beads, 30 lbs
#AB30 - Only $297.99

New: FORMULATIONS, and QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ****

Bio-Pass WICKING Oil Filters
("Wicking" is the selective osmoses of oil that is mixed with undesirable emulsifying substances capable of joining with both hydrous compounds and or oils as well)

A Wicking filter is good for about 5000 to 8000 gallons of averagely clean pre-filtered oil. Remove the separated hydrous fluids that accumulate at the bottom of the filter housing when it's about half full. Cleaning your filter is very simple. The filter should be placed in any cloths washing machine on the gentle cycle and washed in hot water, spin dry cycle OK. Use about two cups of detergent. Very simple and easy to maintain!

Bio-Pass "Wicking" oil filters allow clean oil to easily pass through them as the oil "Wicks" along specially treated fibers that repel hydrous bonds. The "Wicking" process occurs when hydrous contaminants are filtered out by being literally squeezed away from the oil saturated wicking material.

See this filter in action BUT do not forget to buy the beads too !!!!!!!!! They work as a team!!!!



Bio-Pass WICKING Oil Filter with Water Trap
• 1/10 Micron Filter Cartridge
• 3/8" & 1/2" barbed hose fitting in and out
•Optimum processing speed is 8 to 16 gallons per hour.
•Maximum processing speed is 36 gallons per hour (With gear pump)
•Heavy clear canister for easy viewing of filter condition.
•Can be use as a fuel filter on tractors near fuel tank (Not near engine).

Bio-Pass "Wicking" oil filters allow clean oil to easily pass through them as the oil "Wicks" along specially treated fibers that repel hydrous bonds. The "Wicking" process occurs when hydrous contaminants are filtered out by being literally squeezed away from the oil saturated wicking material.

Complete Filter Housing w/Filter - #F11 (Pictured Above) Only $69.95 (3/8" Fittings) Use with Pumped Systems	Complete Filter Housing w/Filter - #F13 Only $69.95 (1/2" Fittings) Use with Pump or Gravity
Filter Cartridge Only, #F11C - Only $41.95	Filter Cartridge Only, #F13C - Only $41.95
Metal Mounting Bracket Kit, Only $9.95   #F10MM	5 feet of 3/8" ID by 5/8" OD Heavy duty clear vacuum hose. Oil resistant Only $14.00 #5VH38

Our filtering systems are designed for VACUUM ONLY! Not designed for pressure type systems!!! Wicking type oil filters are not conducive to pressure since this makes the fiber structure collapse. You must draw (suck) the oil through Wicking type Bio-Pass oil filters in order for them to "Wick" properly. Pulling oil into the filter creates the delicate osmoses and pressure balances that the "Wicking" process requires. Gravity drip is slow but acceptable for these housings and systems.

Hints:
• Warm oil filters easier. Plastic Housing tested up to 135 Degrees F. max.
• Cleaning Instructions (Filter is good for about 5000 to 8000 gallons)

Note: Paper and other organic Fuel filters can swell on contact with Methyl Esters (Vegetable Oils). NEVER USE PAPER FUEL FILTERS ON YOUR ENGINE FUEL LINES WHEN USING ALTERNATIVE FUELS - UNLESS YOU HAVE ASTM GRADE FUEL!!! Use any filter that has other than paper fuel filters on your engines fuel lines. Some people have installed our Bio-Pass filter under their truck beds- before the fuel pump so the pump will pull the Bio-Fuel through the filter. More on Filters

$399.95   #GB5 Gravity Oil Processing Kit (Note: New kit coming soon)
[Note: we recommend putting an F13 Wicking filter inline between the top 5-gallon bucket and the bottom 5-gallon bucket]

Old Alternative Method Below

Pre-Filter
Keeps out leaves, bugs and pieces of fried food plus any other undesirable contaminants while you are collecting your oil.
$29.95   3-pack of oil filters for 5 gallon plastic buckets

 ° Pre - Filters down to 30 mesh
 ° Chemical proof Polypropylene ring
 ° Tough nylon screen is UV resistant
 ° Great for draining oil filters
 ° Easy to clean and remove debris

3-pack of oil filters fits most 55 gallon Steel drums, NOT plastic ones
$ 59.95

° In vegetable oils GCC converts Glycerin groups into an easily burnable fuel
° In black-oil formulas GCC helps excess carbon burn cleanly and completely

Pertinent reaction data - GCC + Glycerin = C3H8O + O2 + NaCl(2)
The O2 will bubble away as a simple gas while the NaCl drops to the bottom of tank as simple salt water. Made from Iridium chloride, sodium peroxide, oxidized toluene, thoinyl chloride, + proprietary additives in oil suspension.

Caution! Can cause burns to skin and eyes! Irritant - Rinse eyes and skin immediately in case of accidental contact. Note: GCC is only very slightly flammable BUT once ignited cannot be put out by any type of fire extinguisher!Store in cool place away from light and at least 100 feet away from all dwelling structures and adjacent buildings! GCC is a highly reactive substance, best stored in a concrete bunker, fire proof safe or other fire proof storage building. Keep away from children! Once mixed into fuel GCC no longer presents any of its fire or irritation hazards. Makes environmentally safe oil fuels guaranteed!

DIRECTIONS: (Perform in 55 gallon drum, works best on warm oil) Add 2 oz. of #GK to 25 gallons of your favorite oil fuel bend. Mix vigorously with high speed propeller for 15 minutes. Allow 1 hour for your oil fuel to separate and float to the top of mixing drum. Using a self priming pump carefully siphon off the clean fuel laying on the top layer without removing any of the waste water soluble materials that have settled to the bottom of the drum. This bottom layer is considered waste and can be recycled back into your "Pitch Tank" or disposed of as your local laws dictate.

Makes fuel Thinner, Clearer burning and offers MUCH better cold weather starting!
One gallon bottle can treat up to 1600 gallons of fuel. (Less than $10.00 per 100 gallons)   5-gallons in bucket can treat up to 8000 gallons of fuel. Use only 8 oz. per 100 gallons.
Model #GK5G is only $359.95
OUT OF STOCK - NO MORE COMING, SORRY

Don't use New Virgin Vegetable Oils - This is Why